MIKE FAIN UCMC SLIDES ANNOTATION

NB: All Devils Lake, Wisconsin climbs are at the RR tracks Bluffs unless noted otherwise. All photos are by Mike Fain unless otherwise indicated. Individuals and peaks are named as they appear left-to-right. Annotations by Pete Gardiner based in part on notes on the original slides and correspondence with Mike Fain.

001. Pete Gardiner climbing a buttress at Devils Lake, 1958.

002. Pete Gardiner higher on the same buttress.

003. Pete Gardiner and Lilly Monheit watching Audrey Fain climb a steep wall at Devils Lake, ~1957.

004. Hanno Klassen, a visiting German mathematician at UC, on a challenging vertical wall at Devils Lake. 1958.

005. Nancy Hedl slhouetted while chimneying a wide chimney at Devils Lake. 1955-6.

006. David Fain climbing at Devils Lake. 1956-7.

007. John Ohrenschall at the summit of Crestone Needle, Crestones, Colorado - logging his and Mike Fain's ascent of the Ellingwood Arete. 1962.

008. John Ohrenschall camping at the base of Lone Eagle  Peak, Colorado, 1962.

009. John Ohrenschall and friends warming at campfire in sleet / freezing rain, at a campsite in the Crestones near Colony Lake. 1962.

010. David Fain climbing a Flatiron (#2?) near Boulder, CO. 1961.

011. John Ohrenschall on Ellingwood Arete, Crestone Needle. 1962.

012. Bob Schluter, Ron Hedl, Pete Gardiner, Nancy Hedl. Taking a break on the hike into the Crestones to climb Crestone Needle. Campsite near Colony Lake. June, 1955.

013. Bill Bryant and Pete Gardiner relaxing in sunshine at the camp in No Name Basin, Weminuche Wilderness, perhaps the day after climbing Animas. June, 1955.

014. Bill Bryant, Bob Schluter. At the campsite in No Name Basin, Weminuche Wilderness. June, 1955.

015. Pete Gardiner, Roy X. East Ridge Direct on Teewinot. Also in the climbing party: Lilly Monheit, Kay Taylor. 1956-7. Photo by Bob Kaylor.

016. Bill Bryant on the summit of Peak 4, No Name Basin. In the background: Gray Needle, KnifePoint, Windom peaks. June, 1955.

017. David Fain rappelling from Rockchuck to avoid an approaching storm. 1957.

018. Bob Schluter on the summit of Humboldt Peak (14,040') in the Crestones. June, 1955.

019. Pete Gardiner and Frank Adams on the CMC route on Mt. Moran, GTNP. Peter is the tiny figure (the CMC face is huge) in the exact center of the photo, Frank is a short distance above and slightly left. Although the climbers were roped up as a precaution, they climbed in tandem and never set up a belay on this climb because the difficuty, surprisingly, never exceeded minimal 5th class. The descent was via the E. Ridge and Skillet Glacier. The wide and apparently bottomless bergschrund on the glacier provided the greatest challenge of the climb: they downclimbed the wet steep wall below the upper lip until they were about 15 feet above the lower lip, then jumped across the ten-foot gap! Frank had a good top belay for this caper, but Peter's belay from below would not have taken effect until he had fallen 30' and was under the overhanging lower lip. 1957.

020. Unknown climber leading a steep buttress at Devils Lake. Aud and David Fain have suggested the climber may be David Pullen, a British climber friend of theirs who visited the US and did some climbs at Devils Lake. Mike Fain says that he believes the slide predates Pullen's climbing at Devil's Lake. The original slide has the notation " ? D Cahe ". There is no date stamp on the slide.

021. Lilly Monheit at Devil's Lake [on Leaning Tower?].  1956-7.

022. Lilly Monheit and Pete Gardiner [on top of Leaning Tower?] at Devil's Lake watching someone climbing up. 1956-7.

023. Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle. 1962 climb by Mike Fain and John Ohrenschall.

024. Mike Fain, Peter Gardiner near summit of Humboldt Peak, Crestones. Photo by Bob Schluter.

025. Colony Lake, Crestones. 1962.

026. Hanging up the laundry / wet clothes to dry, Yankee Boy Basin expedition. 1960.

027. Yankee Boy Basin, Teakettle summit massif from the valley. 1960.

028. Mike Fain climbing toward col on the West Ridge of Teakettle. Photo by Bob Schluter? 1955?

029. The handle on Teakettle Mtn. 1955.

030. Teakettle and Coffee Pot, looking West from a high point on Stony Mtn. 1960.

031. Scenic view of the Teton Range from the NorthEast: Buck Mtn. to St. John. 1957.

032.  Early morning light illuminates the North face of Middle Teton through rising mist. Photo taken from the vicinity of the regular route to the Lower Saddle. Climber at lower right is unidentified. 1957.

033. Sunset turns clouds and mists pink - silhouette of  the range against the sunset from Rockchuck north to Moran. 1957.

034. Selkirks - NW ridge of Sir Donald from Eagle. 1956.

035. Selkirks - R-L: Sir Donald, Uto, Eagle from Castor. 1956.

036. Selkirks - climbers on East Glacier of Castor. 1956.

037. Bugaboos - Hans Gmoser and tent set up on a large boulder in a steep glacial moraine. Hans is an Austrian guide who started Canadian Mountain Holidays (initially with heli skiing in the Bugaboos). 1959.

038. Scenic shot of glacier-hung peaks in the Bugaboos. 1959.

039. Bugaboo Spire. 1959.

040. Bugaboos - Pigeon Spire. Climbers hiking on glacier below Pigeon Spire. 1959.

041. Bugaboos - closeup of Pigeon Spire, showing three climbers on a steep pitch. 1959.

042. Pete Gardiner on the Durrance Ridge [II,5.6], Symmetry Spire, GTNP. 1957.  The impressive ridge behind Peter is the Jensen Ridge [III,5.7].

043. Grand Teton - Frank Adams on the Upper Exum near the summit. Nez Perce - Cloudveil Dome ridge in the background. 1957.

044. Grand Teton - Frank Adams on the summit, via the Exum route. 1957. Note the ice. It was a cold climb, with ice that had to be cleared from the holds.

045. Mt. Moran - Bob Kaylor, Pete Gardiner, Frank Adams on the top of Drizzlepuss enroute to the CMC face via rappel. As the old guidebook indicates, the CMC face viewed from Drizzlepuss is quite intimidating. It appears very steep, very large and relatively smooth. In fact, the face IS huge, but the angle is moderate and there is never a lack of holds. Frank and Peter climbed it in tandem, roped but without ever going on belay, even though towards the top they sought out the most challenging route. 1957.

046. Mt. Moran - Bob Kaylor on Drizzlepuss, watching Peter and Frank start up the CMC face.

047. Yankee Boy Basin - Bill Bryant near the summit of Teakettle. 1955.

048. Mt. Moran - Bob Kaylor, Mike Fain, Pete Gardiner setting out on the long hike to the excellent CMC face high camp. Photo by Frank Adams. 1957.

049. Mt. Moran - Pete Gardiner, Bob Kaylor, Frank Adams, taking a break on the long, hot hike to CMC face high camp. 1957.

050. No Name Basin - Joy Kaylor crossing the Animas River via makeshift sheepherder's cable-cart, enroute to No Name Basin via an unmapped trail along No Name Creek. 1960.

051. Yankee Boy Basin - Mike Fain bouldering. Photo by Bob Kaylor. 1960.

052. Yankee Boy Basin - Bob Kaylor summits a pinnacle. 1960.

053. Yankee Boy Basin - Bob Kaylor starting up a pinnacle. 1960.

054. Yankee Boy Basin - Bob Kaylor on the summit of  Teakettle, belaying up Joy Kaylor. 1960.

055. Devils Lake - the RR track bluff seen from the State Park campground.

056. Devils Lake - Balanced Rock.

057. No Name Basin: Glacier Point -> N. Eolus -> Eolus ridge, from the valley. June, 1955.

058. Lone Eagle Peak, Boulder, CO. Climbed by Mike Fain and John Ohrenschall in 1962.

059. John Ohrenschall near Boulder, CO, 1962. Early season, roadside snowdrifts tower over a car.

060. No Name Basin, Weminuche Wilderness, June 1955. East Face of Monitor Peak.

061. Selkirks, 1956. Climber on E. Glacier of Castor.

062. Selkirks, 1956. Climber on the SW ridge of Uto.

063. Selkirks, 1956. Climbers using standing belays on SW ridge of Uto.

064. Selkirks, 1956. Rex Gipson on Castor.

065. Selkirks, 1956. W. Ridge of Green's Peak; Illecilewast Glacier beyond.

066. Selkirks, 1956. Illecilewast Valley.

067. Tetons,  ~1957. The range, from Buck to Rockchuck, at sunset.

068. Boulder, CO 1962. Pawnee Peak.

069. Tetons, ~1957. The range, from Rockchuck to Moran and Northward, at sunset.

070. Bugaboos, 1959. Pigeon Spire. Several climbers roped but moving concurrently.

071. Boulder, CO, July 1961. Snow-covered peaks above Brainerd Lake.

072. Boulder, Co, June 1962. David Fain on the summit of Pawnee Peak.

073. Yankee Boy Basin, CO, 1955. L-R: Sneffels, Teakettle, Potosi, from the SE.

074. Yankee Boy Basin, CO, 1955. Looking West from Teakettle along the S-shaped ridge, past Cirque Mtn. to Sneffels.

075. No Name Basin, Weminuche Wilderness, June 1955. The Heisspitz ridge.

076. Indian Peaks Mtn. region, CO, 1962. Snowstorm blankets the camp on Mt. St. Vrain.

077. No Name Basin, Weminuche Wilderness, June 1955. From Peak 4, looking SE, L-R: Jagged Mtn., Gray Needle, Peak 10, part of KnifePoint.

078. Boulder, CO, 1961. Flatiron.

079. Devils Lake, WI, ~1956. Audrey Fain roping up.

080. Yankee Boy Basin, 1960. Summit of Stony Mtn. catches early morning light.

081. Bugaboos, 1959. Snow Patch Spire.

082. Boulder, CO. Mike Fain on the 2nd Flatiron.

083. Devils Lake, WI, June 1984. Scenic view of the lake from the top of the RR tracks Bluff.

084. Bugaboos, 1959. ACC camp.